When I recalled that our journey is towards Kutralam, the land of waterfalls, my heart began to sing `` Kuttalam Kuliraruvi… Chittolam chilambu charthiya kuliraruvi . But the song was not apt for the mood of Kutralam at present, as it was not on a soft beat like this song. During the time of bath festival which is from June to September Kutralam is like a fast song where the day-trippers would dance and hop up in the tune of its foot tapping fast number.
The poetic drama ` Kutralam Kuravanji' was written by Melegramam Tirukuttarasappa Kaviyar. A romantic epic where Vasanthalakshmi, Sinki and Sinkan are the characters. In his classic, Kaviyar had portrayed the romance of the apes, where the males and females hugging and sharing their fruits. Now also there are Sinkan and Sinkis and also monkeys. Sinkans wearing Bermuda will be relishing a bath in waterfalls to become hale and hearty and strong (Arogyachamis) . The Vasanthalakshmis and Sinkis would be enjoying the cascade in their customary dress and creating pyramids in the falls. The monkeys would be having a nice time with the sight. They seemed laughing at the hip hop under the falls and in the midst of all these they were try to steal fruits from the tourist kids.
One has to turn to the right direction from Thenkashi to reach Kutralam in the route to Chenkottai .Kutralam can also be reached from Thenkashi city. We reached the spot by midnight. When we were on the entrance of the main fall (Peraruvi ), we received a red receipt of Rs 40 . One has to pay Rs 40 for having a look at any of the waterfalls if they are riding in a car. Even during night, ladies and gentlemen were enjoying the shower under the falls standing in its two sides. The Peraruvi is a beautiful sight where the Chittar river from the upper part of Sahya mountain falling in the beat of Thamilmozhi. Any one would love to enjoy this chill chill .The tourists were having a fun time dancing under the falls. For some it is ``water falling'' inside too.
It is believed that the Kutralam is one among the five dance floors of Lord Siva. There are nine waterfalls in 10 km area in Kutralam in which the Peraruvi is the main one. From there we can reach five falls (aiyntharuvi) which lies 4 km away from the main falls. It flows as five branches and falls in unison. It is said that it is a snake with five heads. In between main falls and five falls is Chittaruvi. One has to go through the forest up to 3 km to reach at Chembakadevi waterfalls. Here is the temple of Agasthya monk where devotees make a visit on Pournami day. From there we have to walk a steep area up to one km to reach at honey falls (thenaruvi). The old falls (old Kutralam ) lies 8 km away from the road to Amba ocean. In the path there is small water falls which is called tiger falls (Puliyaruvi) . A cute little fall especially for the kids. Then comes new falls (puthiyaruvi) and fruits falls (pazhathotta aruvi). Now no visitors are allowed to fruit falls which is surrounded with fruits trees and plantations. The reason, visitors are polluting the waterfalls. The famous Kutralanathar Temple lies near to the main falls. Sivan is Kuruambaleeswaran here and Kuzhalmozhi is the goddess (devatha). It is believed that chithrasabha which is adorned with wall paintings is the dance theatre (natyamandapam) of Lord Siva.
There will be boating in the lake near to five falls when the water level is high. The waterfalls in Kutralam flourish during monsoon season in Kerala. During that time only light rain will be in Tamilnadu which is called `saral' in Tamil. Every day thousands bath under this shower fashioned by the nature. Is there will be another place like this which is dedicated solely for having bath and food?
One can bath safely at anytime at the main falls even in midnight. There are `bath police' to control the rush and they will also be bathing under the falls. If the rainfall is less in Kerala , the water level will be weak in Kutralam during September.
During night we stayed at Hotel Tamilnadu of Tamilnadu Tourism Development Corporation. As we have not reserved any rooms earlier, it was a little bit difficult to get the accommodation. We got a comparatively good double room with a rent of Rs 550.There are a number of hotels and cottages for single and group stays other than high profile resorts. The street food vendors were attracting the attention with hot Mulakubhajhi(chillibhaji) and Parippuvada .The scene evoked our appetite and persuaded us to have the dinner from there. The dishes are most suited for the chill here.
When we were out from the hotel in the morning, we were welcomed by a Tamil native selling Toddy Palm Fruit (Pananonku) . Tourists were gulping it as like having their bed coffee. There were a number of spices shops situated near the main falls. In the way to the Old Kutralam , tourists were sitting in queue on the rocks waiting for their turn to have massage .`` Sir, have a massage with Ponnankanni oil'' (Ponnankanni thailam pottu malish pannunko sir), the teenager from the massage parlour yelled at us. It is claimed that the oil is made of various ayurvedic medicines. A green paste, which they said is best for the eyes. To have massage only on the head, the charge is Rs 30 and for full body, it is Rs 100. We can locate uncovered massage centers in every nook and cranny. Also can hear the thuds, like the sounds while making Parathas (porotta), from above the rocks, under the trees and in the sheds where 10 to 15 people are being massaged at the same time. Those who do not need thuds and trundles where seen massaging themselves after buying oil. In one place there was a board written as ``ladies massage available here''. ``Only the hands and head of the ladies would be massaged'', a guy from inside said. But no women were seen there.
It is believed that people will become healthy by having bath in the water which flows from upper parts of the mountain after fondling a number of medicinal plants. On the light of such a belief, Kutralam got the name, ` the Spa of South'. There are saints in Kutralam who claim that one week stay in Kutralam will diminish not only the criminal tendencies but even sugar. The Kutralam time will fetch the men with the right to forget their shame, untie their seriousness and to have mirth under the dancing falls enjoying the chill.
On return just come along Thenkashi city. Glance the beat of Thenkashi by enjoying the breeze sitting in the stone pavements of Kasiviswanathan temple or having a look at the nine storied royal tower with 180 meter height.
The Pandya kings constructed the temple in the year 1505. The tower which was destroyed during a lightening in 1825 was rebuilt later. The temple is renowned for beautiful stone sculptures and symphony stages. During sunset, electric lamps will open its eyes and the tower adorns a golden attire with this.
From Thenmala, there is only 37 km to Kutralam in the Kollam – Chenkottai road .After having a close view of Kutralam, one can have a journey to Thenmala too. Otherwise be the guest of Thenamla on return journey.
S.N Jayaprakash
Photos: Vivek R Nair
Translation: Shamila K Y
During night we stayed at Hotel Tamilnadu of Tamilnadu Tourism Development Corporation. As we have not reserved any rooms earlier, it was a little bit difficult to get the accommodation. We got a comparatively good double room with a rent of Rs 550.There are a number of hotels and cottages for single and group stays other than high profile resorts. The street food vendors were attracting the attention with hot Mulakubhajhi(chillibhaji) and Parippuvada .The scene evoked our appetite and persuaded us to have the dinner from there. The dishes are most suited for the chill here. 
