Anasuya's eyes close slowly, as if in a reverie, 'The days have sped by in a flash, like bursting firecrackers. When we return to Rajasthan tomorrow, the snow will remain hidden deep in our hearts.' Next to her is her husband enjoying a cup of hot coffee. She throws a loving look at him from the corner of her eyes. Anasuya and Ranvir are from Jaipur. Manali has brought to life the poet within Anasuya who is a software engineer …
The thrill of the journey had already set in, when I first met them at a Tibetan coffee shop. On seeing the camera, they said with a smile, 'Only dreams, no snaps'.
Manali is the land of honeymooners. Most of the tourists are couples, like Anasuya and Ranvir or those who have come to relive their honeymoon days.
Nature is the main attraction in Manali. Manali's proximity to the snow-covered Himalayan ranges makes it a hot favorite among tourists. The journey through the Kulu valley to Manali, along the banks of the crystal clear waters of the Beas River in the pure gentle breeze, is by itself extremely beautiful. Not to speak of the glistening snow-covered peaks beneath the clear blue skies and the unending stretches of farmlands interspersed with apple orchards.
And here comes Remadevi holding a snowball-like white hare close to her chest and throws a tempting offer, 'Twenty rupees Saab!' For twenty rupees, one can hold the hare for five minutes, cuddle it and take photos too. And not just with hares, but with yaks too. There are huge crowds here also waiting to take photos mounted on top of the yak, which resembles a hairy forest on the move. Or else, you can take a picture dressed in the rich dark coloured traditional attires of the Himachal. There are many, like Remadevi, who make a living out of tourism, ranging from small scale local guides to huge resort owners.
Dense Deodar forests surround us as we climb up the hills. It is just four in the evening and it appears as if the sun has already set. Here, there is an ancient temple that blends beautifully with the surrounding forest.
The legend goes like this: the Pandavas had come here, during their period of exile in the forest. The demon, Hidimba who was very hungry, sent his sister Hidimbi to capture the Pandavas. But Hidimbi fell in love with Bheemasena, totally forgetting her mission to find food for her brother. The furious Hidimba died in the encounter that ensued with Bheema. Bheema married Hidimbi. And Manali became their bridal chamber. There is also a temple here dedicated to Ghatothkacha, the son of Bheema and Hidimbi.
This is the land where romance blossomed breaking the barriers of class and clan. Even today, there is love and romance in the air. Couples in a romantic mood, making open and uninhibited display of their love, totally oblivious of everything around, is a common sight.
The 12km long journey to Kothi is spectacular. The road rolls out like a black blanket in the midst of unending stretches of snow. Small shops crop up intermittently along the windy curves. Knee length boots and huge woolen coats are spread out in display and everything is available for rent. Kothi is freezing cold with knee-deep snow. And hence all these precautions.
The road comes to an end as Kothi finally unfolds itself - the ups and downs of the snow-covered mountains, the pine trees that stand in isolation, the silver clouds that float by lazily in the clear blue sky. All around, there is celebration and gaiety. The singing and dancing of the tourist groups bring in a festive air. Adventurous skiers swiftly glide past, up and down the mountainous slopes, like white birds in flight. Some others play with the snow, like small children, throwing snowballs at one another….! Reaching this place that has been the background of many of the beautiful song sequences, one is unknowingly swept into a romantic mood!
K Unnikrishnan
Photos: Ajeeb Komachi
Translation: Anuradha Ganesh
