Florence. The city of flowers. The sanctorum of art. The Italian land of creativity that experienced the first flutters of renaissance. The world of art museums and awe inspiring artistic creations.
Time and tide waits for none,
But in Florence
It waits on one
The ubiquitous Michael Angelo.
Every conversation in Florence ends in Michael Angelo. All queries elicit only one response----Michael Angelo.
--Who drew this picture? --Whose conceptualization is this cathedral? --This sculpture? Michael Angelo.
Even the notion of times and epochs in Florence has Michael Angelo as its reference. Time and tide might have stopped for none; but in Florence, it certainly begins or ends with one - Michael Angelo.
Standing spellbound in front of the three-person high golden door of the St. John's Baptistery, I guessed who its genius creator could be and therefore did not ask the obvious. But our guide had something new to say: The Gates of Paradise, as the golden doors are known, is a masterpiece of Lorenzo Ghiberti, a renaissance-age sculptor. And he hurriedly adds that it was Michael Angelo who had named it the Gates of Paradise! The molded reliefs of Cain and Abel, Joseph, Esau and Noah's Arc on gold leaves, all spring into tri-dimensional life on this golden door.
World over, it is the rulers and emperors, and very seldom the artists, who succeed in capturing the pages of history as time moves on. But Florence proves to be an exception to this trend. Where else, but in Florence, can you find a city that is in perfect tuning with the heart and soul of an artist?
I first heard of the Stendhal syndrome and experienced it, in Florence's Uffizi art museum where creativity, imagination and artistic prowess flow in full spate, like the river Arno.
Roaming around the museum, studying the wonderful art collections of world renowned artists like Michael Angelo, Raphael, DaVinci, Mario Schifano and many others, I suddenly felt drained out. Seeing me succumbing to a seat nearby, my guide asked whether I was tired. He warned, I could be a victim of 'Stendhal Syndrome' where one feels overwhelmed by emotion and amazement, leading to dizziness and intense fatigue. This illness is usually seen in people taking in Florentine art. It occurs when one is confronted with beautiful, large works of art and high voltage thinking for long periods of time. This was first observed in the 19th century French author Stendhal (pseudonym of Henri-Marie Boyle). Also known as Florence syndrome or Hyperkulturemia, it, however, is nothing to get apprehensive about. One is back to normal with a little rest and sleep.
Florence-- The city of flowers, the treasure trove of art. The cradle of human civilization. The fields where the seeds of renaissance were first sown. The land of world famous art museums, the canvas of Raphael, Da Vinci and Michael Angelo, breathtaking artistic creations and murals, captivating cathedrals, sky domes- literally the golden gateway of Art! Where else, but in Florence, does every stone have the route to paradise engraved on it? Where else can the golden doors open to paradise!
But even paradise fails to cover what Florence has got to offer. It is from Tuscany, the heart of Italy, that many ideologies and inventions that we, today, call 'modern' had its genesis. Be it political strategy, revolution, voyage, science, religion, banking, fashion, opera, photography, fine arts, sculpture-the world is indebted to the indomitable spirit of Florentians. And maybe this is the precise reason why Pope Boniface VIII included Florence as the fifth element in the existing four universal elements of Earth, Air, Fire, and Water. And the list of geniuses that Florence has produced certainly does speak for the Pope. Scientists Galileo Galilei, Antonio Meucci, Leon Battista Alberti; Writers Dante, Petrarch, Boccaccio, Sir Harold Acton, Oriana Fallaci; Artists Michael Angelo, Leonardo Da Vinci, Raphael, Botticelli, Masaccio, Vasari; sculptors Filippo Brunelleschi, Donatello, Lorenzo Ghiberti who are identified with the initiators of Renaissance; Dochnal who drew the sea route for Columbus; Navigators like Amerigo Vespucci who discovered America; Florence Nightingale – the embodiment of kindness; great political strategists Machiavelli, Bruni, Miran Dola; fashion designers Roberto Cavalli, Enrico Coveri, Salvatore Ferragamo…the list goes on.
Which other city can boast of such a rich heritage?
I reached Florence one afternoon – the small town on the banks of river Arno, encircled by hills on all sides. It is a city that invokes memories of the Middle age, a city that holds you captive right from the first sight. Every street starts from or ends in a quadrangle, with each quadrangle having its own story and history to enthrall you. Some streets open doors to primeval periods while some others invite you into the modern world of high fashion. The streets are filled with artists, the descendants of Michael Angelo and Da Vinci, trying to capture on canvas the immortal beauty of the city– truly the city of art. I, too, had my portrait, wonderfully captured, in a short span of 15 minutes, with a unique combination of colours and strokes—a beautiful Florentine souvenir to take back home, for fifty euros.
It is the world famous art museums depicting the renaissance era and churches filled with the golden door–like carvings that constitute the main attraction in Florence. To take in the whole of what Florence has to offer might take days, not to speak of the long hours spent in queues. Take care that you are not possessed by the Stendhal syndrome when confronted by the enormity and magnificence of what is about to be unraveled. The Uffizi museum, one of the world's largest museums, alone is sufficient to pull you down with its heights. Such is the enormity and magnificence!
Next to the Uffizi museum is the gallery that houses Michael Angelo's famous sculpture of David, and the unfinished sculpture of Slaves. On expressing my desire to take a photograph in front of this sculpture of David, my co-traveler and friend, an American Pasteur, Victor Alphe, informed me that photography was prohibited there. But if you are very particular, there's a way out, he added. A museum nearby, called the Pallazo Vecchio (Old Palace), has replicas of all these sculptures, in front of which you can take photographs. Mostly, it is the duplicates that are kept on display here, and not the originals, he confided to me. Alphe had come here before and he says, tourists are seldom able to distinguish between the originals and the duplicates in their first visit. An individual with a keen eye for detail will know the difference. For example, the nails on David's foot- in the original, the nails have a minor defect!
The Doors of Paradise is considered as the symbol of Florence. No one leaves Florence without seeing this wonder. This 16 ft tall door, built for St. John's Baptistery during the 15th century, has three dimensional relief work sculpted in gold leaves! They depict Biblical characters and stories. It is said that it took Lorenzo Ghiberti, the master sculptor of the Doors of paradise, 27 years, from 1425 to 1452, to complete this marvelous work of art. On completion, he cleverly had sculpted his own face onto the door. Indeed it is an exceptional work that no words can justify. It even held the great Michael Angelo wonderstruck! Applauding this wonderful work, Michael Angelo dubbed these the Doors of Paradise. And ever since it is known by this name. Seeing me standing enthralled by this marvel, Alphe whispered 'even this is not the original. This is a replica!'
'So why do you come again and again to view these replicas?' I asked Victor, who is also a student of art appreciation. 'Even the world's greatest original works of art do not come close to the workmanship of these replicas. No other city has held me so captive and wonderstruck as Florence has', he replied.
I first met Alphe during an exhilarating journey through highlands filled with vineyards and Olive orchards 'Have you seen wine cellars? Have you heard of the ever-virgin olive oil?' Alphe quizzed.
We were surrounded by vineyards and vineyards and vineyards! As far as our eyes could travel, it was only vineyards in our this journey towards an 800yr old fort. Wearing bermuda shorts and tee- shirt, Alphe was not alone. He was accompanied by Sandra, his sweet girlfriend. There was something mysterious in this plump priest who sang and laughed aloud, that drew people towards him – a globetrotter who enjoyed life as one would relish vine. There was one more beautiful woman, accompanying him. It was Clara, a teacher, who introduced herself as a truck driver's wife. Her husband had not come. She strongly believed that it was joining Alphe, who equally entertained them both with his jokes and laughter that had made her trip so joyous and memorable.
Hidden deep inside these sprawling vineyards, like a sweet grape, on top of the hill, is a fort. A family that made and sold wine and olive oil stayed in this fort. They offered different types of foaming wine in crystal chalices for the visitors to taste. We tasted them. Alphe, as one familiar to all these, guided us to the wine cellar, taking along with him an earthen pot filled with grape juice. In the cellar we saw barrels after barrels of the best wines and olive oil of different quantities and qualities. Each was filled in barrels of different colours and sizes and stored there. From ageing wine to instant ready-made wine, everything was available there. Pointing to a barrel kept separately in a corner, Alphe said with a twinkle in his eye: 'Here, this is the extra virgin olive oil. The oil is extracted in the first squeeze-and hence so virgin!' 'Not like Sandra!' he winked laughing uncontrollably. This is another attraction, unique to Florence: virgin olive oil and sweet wine! An intoxicating combination, this is indeed the door to paradise!
One of the important stops on a Florence tour are Cathedrals. Santa Maria (duomo de Firenze), the cathedral at the heart of the city, is the home to the dome created by the world famous sculptor, Brunelleschi. Here also one can find the replica of Michael Angelo's Pieta. This cathedral, filled with sculptures and murals, has, on its walls and roof, signature works of all great artists starting from the Renaissance period. This is indeed a magical world of sculptures. Adjacent to this cathedral is the Giotto tower, from top of which you can get a bird's–eye view of the entire Florence city. Straight down are the Arno River and the old bridge (Ponte Vecchio) above the river. The river, dividing the city into two, calmly flows below... Alphe informed me that it is the only bridge in Florence to have survived the World War II. This bridge has another specialty as well. It is filled with shops, mostly jewellery shops. Crossing the bridge to the other side of the city, you reach the Old palace, the House of Medici- a political dynasty. With the old palace on one side and the Uffizi museum on the other, the Arno river flows witnessing history, contemporary and posterity in its wake. The breeze blowing from the river takes you to a primeval Florence filled with nostalgic stories.
Cathedrals and museums are not the sole attractions. Even cemeteries constitute major tourist spots in Florence. It was while standing amazed by the beautiful sculptures in the Santa Cruz cathedral that Alphe asked whether I had seen the cemetery there. 'Cemetery!' I asked surprised. It's not just an ordinary cemetery, he informed. It's a pilgrimage site as well. Michael Angelo, Galileo, Dante, Machiavelli and many other geniuses who have influenced the world with their art and thinking are buried here. 'So lets see it as well', I exclaimed. But here again, the entire cemetery was flooded with tourists. Paying homage to these great souls by lighting candles, these tourists and pilgrims were moving around searching for particular graves.
Where else can you find ancestry marketed so efficiently in the name of tourism?
Now, the journey to Pisa, 80km from Florence. We were on our way to the Leaning tower of Pisa. Traveling in a mini bus, this 1.5 hour journey winding through mountains and gorges was dotted with vineyards, olive farms, and white marble quarries. On reaching a village called Carrara, Alphe asked: 'Do you know the importance of this village?' 'It is here where you can get the best Italian marble' he informed. As we traveled further, pointing his fingers outside, the priest asked, 'Do you know where that road leads to? It's to Vinci – the village of Leonardo da Vinci!' We despairingly looked on as that trail faded away in between the mountains.
Around afternoon we reached Pisa. There lies the Leaning tower, behind beautiful squares and cathedrals and small museums. The slant of the tower becomes more evident when seen next to the cathedral. The entire surroundings have been taken over by tourists. It is like this always, it seems. Even in the freezing cold of winters, the leaning tower is surrounded by tourists. If you stand in a particular position you can take a photograph of you supporting the leaning tower with your hands. Nobody leaves Pisa without this photograph. Almost a millennium old, the tower stands on like a new construction, a mesmerizing miracle!
Seeing me staring at it, Alphe whispered in my ears: 'Don't look carefully. This is not a replica. This is the original!'
***
Florence: Travel Info
Capital city of the Italian region of Tuscany. City spreads on the banks of the river Arno, between the Adriatic and the Tyrrhernian Seas, almost in the middle of the Italian peninsula. Florence was the birthplace of the Italian renaissance, founded by the Romans in the first century B.C.
Location:
Country: Italy, Region: Tuscany
How to Reach:
By air: There are two main airports in Tuscany; Florence 'Vespucci' Airport and Pisa International Airport. 'Vespucci' is located 5 Km. From the city center. Lufthansa, Swiss, Air France, Jet Airways, Brussels Airlines, Royal Dutch Airlines, Air India, United Airlines, British Airways and Turkish Airlines operate flights between India and Florence. Delhi-Florence flight charge varies between Rs. 21,480 to 2,39,677 in different classes. Pisa International Airport is located in Pisa (80 km).
Contact:
Italian Embassy in India (New Delhi)- 011-26114355
Website: www.ambnewdelhi.esteri.it
General Consulate (Mumbai) 022-23804071
Website: www.consmumbai.esteri.it
For Visa enquiry: www.vfs-italy.co.in
Travel tips:
Time difference: GMT plus one hour (plus two hours in Summer)
Website: www.aboutflorence.com
Sights Around:
Pisa: The city is known worldwide for its Leaning tower (the bell tower of the city's cathedral).
Florence Cathedral: The 'Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore' is the cathedral church (Duomo) of Florence. The three buildings are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site covering the Historic Centre of Florence.
Florence Baptistery: One of the oldest buildings in the city, built between 1059 and 1128. The Baptistery is renowned for its three sets of artistically important bronze doors with relief sculptures by Lorenzo Ghiberti. These doors were dubbed by Michelangelo 'the Gates of Paradise'.
Giotto's Tower: The tower gives magnificent 360-degree view of Florence.
Galleria delgli Uffizi: one of the world's most famous fine art museums.
Academy Gallery: Museum housing famous sculptures by Michelangelo.
I reached Florence one afternoon – the small town on the banks of river Arno, encircled by hills on all sides. It is a city that invokes memories of the Middle age, a city that holds you captive right from the first sight. Every street starts from or ends in a quadrangle, with each quadrangle having its own story and history to enthrall you. Some streets open doors to primeval periods while some others invite you into the modern world of high fashion. The streets are filled with artists, the descendants of Michael Angelo and Da Vinci, trying to capture on canvas the immortal beauty of the city– truly the city of art. I, too, had my portrait, wonderfully captured, in a short span of 15 minutes, with a unique combination of colours and strokes—a beautiful Florentine souvenir to take back home, for fifty euros. 
We were surrounded by vineyards and vineyards and vineyards! As far as our eyes could travel, it was only vineyards in our this journey towards an 800yr old fort. Wearing bermuda shorts and tee- shirt, Alphe was not alone. He was accompanied by Sandra, his sweet girlfriend. There was something mysterious in this plump priest who sang and laughed aloud, that drew people towards him – a globetrotter who enjoyed life as one would relish vine. There was one more beautiful woman, accompanying him. It was Clara, a teacher, who introduced herself as a truck driver's wife. Her husband had not come. She strongly believed that it was joining Alphe, who equally entertained them both with his jokes and laughter that had made her trip so joyous and memorable.
