Those who loved death more than life; those who desired to traverse across many birth cycles; whose minds dwelt on afterlife and liberation. In his writings on Egypt, novelist Sethu takes us along with them, across time…
'At first I could see nothing, the hot air escaping from the chamber causing the candle flame to flicker, but as my eyes grew accustomed to the light, details of the room within emerged slowly from the mist. Strange animals, statues, and gold - everywhere the glint of gold.... I was dumb with amazement when I heard Lord Carnarvon enquiring anxiously, 'Can you see anything?' I was at a loss for words and I somehow answered, 'Yes, wonderful things.'
These are the words of the British archaeologist, Howard Carter, about the tomb of the Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun, the last to be unearthed in the region known as the Valley of Kings, in 1922. Of the three golden coffins inside the sarcophagus, one contained the mummified corpse of Tutankhamun.
More than 260 groups, both small and large, comprising of archaeologists from different countries, still continue their excavations in various parts of Egypt; sustained by the strong hope that they would stumble upon some amazing relics. Even if it turns out to be an exercise in futility, there are many who come back again with renewed hope. Like this, many have sacrificed the best parts of their lives in these deserts. This is what makes this ancient civilization very enticing.
The life history of Howard Carter is as fascinating as a fictitious tale. Howard Carter, who had spent many years in Egypt, was certain that there was one more tomb yet to be discovered - the tomb of the Egyptian king Tutankhamun who had died at the age of 19. When five years of explorations bore no fruit, Lord Carnarvon, who was financing these expeditions, almost decided to call it a day. Then, by an amazing coincidence, the excavations carried out following the signals from a yellow feathered canary, led them to the mouth of an undiscovered cave.
Many precautionary measures have been adopted to protect the treasure filled tombs from robbers. The curse-like warnings inscribed on the front entrance is one such measure. Here too, there was such an inscription. 'They who enter this sacred tomb shall swift be visited by wings of death!' Though Carter had no belief in such things, the unexpected death of Lord Carnarvon following an infection from an insect bite, shocked the team members. It is said that Tutankhamen's body had an identical wound as the one on Carnarvon. Later, around ten members of this team died due to various causes. Though the Egyptians attribute the reason for these deaths to the curse, there are many who brush aside such superstitions by highlighting the natural death of Carter at the age of 66.
This is what any ordinary visitor to Egypt looks out for – the historical milestones of this 5000 year old civilization that lie scattered in these colored sands and the colorful myths and legends that surround them.
Therefore, it has always been my dream to visit Egypt; the land with a glorious past, like Rome and Greece. Thousands of years old Pyramids, Sphinxes, tombs, mummies, the river Nile … how many such fascinating spectacles!
God's own Middlemen
Gods, ruling pharaohs and religious convictions are all a part of the ancient Egyptian culture. Egyptians look upon the Pharaohs - the gods on earth, as middlemen between people and god. Historians have recorded that around 30 dynasties ruled Egypt between 3100 BC and 322 BC.
The Pharaohs showed more interest in building tombs than huge palaces. So intense was their yearning to traverse across birth cycles! Ancient Egyptians saw death not as an end to life, but as the beginning of a journey to another world. They believed that after death, the eternal soul becomes the life force, 'ka', and rejoins the gods. When the soul is reborn, it requires the body of the individual for sustenance. This is why the Egyptians preserved the bodies of the dead. The older generations took care to mummify the dead kings' bodies and keep them safely in specially made coffins. They believed that a failure to do so would lead to the land's doom. Gold and precious stones, vessels, household equipments and food were kept in these death chambers as treasures for subsequent births.
Our journey began from the capital of Egypt, Cairo. Like any other Middle East city, Cairo too has a modern look. However, once outside the city, the ordinary sights of an underdeveloped country become prominent -- unpainted, dust covered old buildings in dilapidated conditions, filthy streets strewn with horse dung. Not to speak of the national airline delayed by three and a half hours and the train running 2˝ hours late! In short, the picture of a typical north Indian city, except that the desert is dustier.
The age old pyramids
Egyptian sights usually begin and end with pyramids. It was a great experience to be a part of the light-and-sound show organized at the end of the journey, on a freezing cold evening. The sphinx, the protector of the land, is shown as narrating the history of the pyramids spanning over thousands of years.
Though there are more than 100 pyramids in various parts of Egypt, the most important is the one in the city of Giza, 22km from the Cairo airport. Giza is indeed a city of pyramids! Probably, that's why most of the establishments here, from hotels to schools, affix the word 'pyramid' to their names.
In the olden days, the Egyptian pharaohs, the believers in afterlife, began their journey to eternity by constructing the pyramids. King Khufu, the second king of the fourth dynasty (2589-2566 BC) built three pyramids in Giza. The largest and the most important of the three, is the 4500 year old Great Pyramid. It is considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Its height is 481ft and length of its sides comes to around 775ft. Though the coffin of the king who was buried inside this chamber is no longer there, it is still possible to get a view of the grave beneath, if one is really determined to squeeze through the narrow passage leading to it. It took 23 years to complete this huge pyramid. Many of the succeeding kings might have had their own doubts about completing such huge projects within their life time. Also, many of the works that were taken up earlier remained incomplete. Thus, their attention turned to building temples enclosing their tombs rather than pyramids.
Amazing Pyramids
There are many stories about the way in which the Great pyramid was constructed. The claim that the work was completed using thousands of slaves, has almost been rejected. In addition to the skilled construction workers, innumerable common men were also believed to be a part of this great endeavor. Two groups with around a lakh members, were involved in this work. These also included villagers who migrated to the nearby cities when farming was disrupted because of the flooding of the Nile River for about three months a year. Today, this monument is looked upon as the symbol of Egyptian nationality and not just as a pharaoh's tomb.
Around 23 lakh limestone blocks, each weighing on an average 2˝ tones, is said to have been used for this. The largest block is said to weigh around 15 tones. These huge blocks were transported from the far away quarries of Aswan through the river Nile using rafts made of palm trunks. This conical structure built by perfect piling of blocks in exact contact is indeed an engineering marvel. It is amazing that this was constructed at a time when materials such as cement and lime mortar were unheard of. The perfection and precision in the shape of the blocks is clearly revealed in the light and sound show as laser beams pass through them. It is the perfect coordination of the structure and design from top to bottom, with not even a millimeter of deviation, which makes this pyramid a great wonder even today. Though it is said that the blocks are held together by removing the air in between, the technical know-how for such a procedure still remains unknown.
The Sun Guardian
Egyptians believe that when a pharaoh dies, he becomes Osiris, the king of the dead. The new pharaoh becomes the god of heaven and the protector of the sun God, 'Ra', symbolized by sun rise and sun set. The colossal structure of the Great Sphinx is located somewhat north east of the Khafre temple. The 4500 year old sphinx, with the head of a woman and the body of a lion, is the guardian of the valley of pyramids. It is considered as one of the national symbols of Egypt. Though slightly disfigured in the course of time, there was an attempt to give the Sphinx the face of a king. It is still a matter of debate as to who built the sphinx – whether it was Khafre or Khufu, the builder of the Great pyramid.
The Sphinx, considered the largest of all man-made sculptures, stands facing the rising sun. This is in harmony with beliefs of the ancient Egyptians who worshipped the Sun. Archeologists from world over have been drawn to the myths and stories associated with the Sphinx. The construction of the Sphinx is much more complicated than that of the pyramid. It still baffles historians as to how such huge limestone blocks were transported and lifted to such a great height. There are also many who consider the Sphinx as an oracle for diviners of that land. Perched between its paws is a granite stele recounting a vision given to a prince.
The wild prowess of animals has always been one of great wonder for the human race. The self confidence developed over the ages by overpowering them is probably seen in the depiction of the giant structure with the head of a woman and the body of the animal king.
The Cairo museum has a huge collection that brings back reminiscences of time immemorial. 15 mummies that are at least 3000 years old have been displayed in a separate section. The bodies, kept in special glass coffins, remain intact even today with not much damage to any of its organs! The skull, teeth, hair, nails, pock-marks on the faces and even the jewellery worn by some of them remain intact. In the descriptions kept along, the possible causes of death of some of the kings are also hinted. On one of the mummies, a wound on the skull can be seen, which could be the result of an encounter or an accident.
Traditional and scientific knowledge have been applied in equal measure to preserve the dead bodies in this manner. The body is moved to a specially made chamber and is purified with natron (which can be considered as a mixture of sodium carbonate and bicarbonate). The internal organs are then removed, cleaned, packed dry and kept in separate jars. The body is stuffed with natron. It is also applied externally over the body and allowed to dry. After 40 days, the inner stuffings are taken out, cleaned, and again filled with natron, perfumes and resin bandages to reproduce the shape of the body. This is followed by a 2 ˝ week long elaborate bandaging procedure to prevent the body from decaying. Remnants of these bandages can be seen on some of the mummies in the Cairo museum
Varying Expressions of the Nile
After Cairo, we continued on our journey towards Aswan by a night train. At the break of daylight, all we could see were barren stretches interspersed with cultivated lands adjoining the Nile. Though the facilities in the A.C coupe were satisfactory, the unkempt trains and filthy stations were an eyesore.
Unlike the other African countries, Egypt is not bestowed with oil or mineral reserves. The lifeline of Egypt is the Nile River that flows from the south to the north. Egypt is a relatively poor country solely dependent on the agricultural cultivations on the either side of the river Nile. The changing moods of the Nile have always been a source of anxiety for the Egyptians. During some summers, the neighboring areas reel under severe drought. On the other hand, in certain years, torrential floods from Ethiopia cause the river Nile to breach its banks. In earlier days, the farmers used to regard the floods as a blessing as it increased soil fertility. As population and housing localities grew in number, protection of agricultural lands from floods became a necessity. Though there was an old dam at Aswan, it was inadequate to regulate the flooding of the Nile and meet the growing demands for irrigation, and electricity. Thus, the idea for a new dam came up. However, the governing authorities did not take any initiative. It was at this juncture that Gamal Abdel Nasser, the architect of modern Egypt, took up the construction and made Aswan dam a reality.
The Nile Cruise
The cruise through the river Nile to Luxor, the capital of ancient Egypt, is a memorable experience. The small ship with four floors had all the modern amenities of a luxury hotel. The night view from the deck, in the gentle breeze, is unforgettable.
There were other reasons for organizing such a long cruise on the Nile. Most of the temples - the historical monuments that are a major tourist attraction- are located along this route, not far away from the river banks. Therefore it was very easy to visit these places. Since the ship was well equipped with excellent facilities, there was no need for a hotel stay at Luxor.
It is believed that the most ancient river valley civilization took form on the banks of the river Nile. Egyptians believe that the Gods revived the Nile which had once dried up. The world's longest river has its sources in the countries of Ethiopia, Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya, and Burundi. The longest stretch of the Nile comes with the start of the Kyaka River in Burundi. From Ethiopia, water flowing through the Blue Nile joins the White Nile at Khartoum in Sudan and then flows to Egypt. One fourth of the 6671 km long river is in Egypt.
The Relocated Temples
The Aswan dam construction posed the greatest threat to the historically famous temples of Abu Simbel and Philae. Philae is considered to be Egypt's most beautiful temple. When historians and archaeological researchers world over raised a hue and cry, Nasser assured them that these Egyptian heritage monuments would be safely relocated without causing any damage. However, many did not believe him. With great care, each part of the temples were dismantled, numbered, labeled and then reassembled in another distant location. A great engineering marvel in recent times indeed! The project was a joint venture of the Egyptian government and the UNESCO. The present Philae temple was relocated from the original island of Philae, and has been rebuilt on Anglika Island, 550 meters away. The Abu Simbel temple was relocated to a place 200 meters away within a period of 4 years.
Emaciated Cleopatra
The Komobo temple, 28 miles to the north of Aswan, with its sculptures and carvings, attracts lot of tourists. Our guide had a lot to say about the first calendar that was engraved on the walls of Komobo. Originally, the number of days in a year was taken as 360. Later five days were added on as an offering to the Gods, thereby resulting in a total number of 365 days. He described with great pride the way in which the year was divided into 12 months and how they were then named. Similarly, the portrait of Cleopatra, the queen of Alexandria is also engraved on the walls here. The emaciated female figures seen in Egyptian temples appeared odd when compared to the exaggerated rotund female figures depicted in India. After being used to seeing the beauty queen, Cleopatra, in movies immortalized by Elizabeth Taylor, we do have a mental block in accepting this appearance.
The Valley of kings
The Valley of Kings, which is a major tourist attraction, contains the tombs of the 62 kings who ruled after the 18th dynasty. The Egyptians built these tombs inspired by the belief that the mere utterance of the name of the deceased would enable them to be born again. Away from the towering pyramids, the kings found their resting place after death in these spacious underground chambers. The catalogues and other details of the buried kings have been put on display here. This must be the place where most of the excavations have been carried out. Therefore, international gangsters have always been active here. It is not just the rare riches in these chambers, even the precious mummies have a huge market abroad. Except for the ones that have been kept safe in the Cairo museum, all the other mummies were lost much before. Only the tomb and the corpse of Tutankhamen, the one last discovered by Howard Carter, remain intact in the Valley of Kings today. A CT scan conducted on this mummy, for the first time in history, showed that Tutankhamen's legs had been broken a few days before his death. There are many who hold that it is the infections resulting from this that had led to his death and not an enemy attack, as is commonly believed.
Papyrus and Perfumes
Any tourist who comes to Egypt will be taken to the paper (papyrus) and perfume factories by the guides. Thin handmade paper from the Papyrus plant was used for writing and painting in the olden days. The word 'paper' is derived from the word papyrus. The delicate skill of making paper out of the Papyrus plant is demonstrated in such units. Paintings and designs of various sizes made out of such papyrus sheets are a favorite among foreign tourists even though they are slightly expensive. Such small scale paper factories are known as 'Papyrus Museums'.
The perfume factories here are also equally well known. The Egyptians, in general, have a great liking for perfumes. Some of them can even be regarded as stimulants. The intoxicating fragrance of the beautifully dressed Cleopatra is said to have captivated Mark Antony when they met after Julius Caesar's death. It is fascinating to watch the perfume glass bottles made into attractive shapes. The unadulterated natural oils from Rose, jasmine, lotus, lily, Papyrus and many other flowers are the ingredients of many of the world's famous perfume brands.
The Key of Life
Egyptians take great pride in their very ancient cultural heritage. This pride was noticeable in all the descriptions given by our guide, Farooq Mohammad. The Egyptians take credit for the discovery of anything unconventional and unique. And the sights that followed do substantiate their claims. He claims that the symbol of the cross originated from the 'key of life' seen hanging from the hands of kings and queens in many of the pictures.
Our return flight to Mumbai was from Luxor via Cairo. Though I have visited many of the historically important European countries, the memories of Egypt still remain fresh in my mind. The travel experiences in Egypt prove beyond doubt that it is an ancient civilization with its own charm and liveliness.
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Travel Info: Egypt
Cradle of Civilization, Gift of Nile, Land of Pharaohs and Mummies, in every sense Egypt is traveler's marvel.
How to reach:
By air: Some of the flights operations to Egypt from India, -Egypt Air, Air Arabia, Kuwait Airways, Emirates Airlines, Jet Airways, Air India, Gulf Air, Qatar Airways, Etihad Airways, Oman Aviation.
Kochi-Alexandria flight charges vary from Rs.17, 050 to Rs.1, 22,419 in different classes. Kochi-Cairo: Rs.19, 460 to Rs.72, 190
Contact:
Egyptian Consulate Tourism Office, 48, World Trade Center, 1st floor, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai- 400 005, Ph: 91-22 22189543
For visa enquiry 91-22 23676422, Fax 91-22 2218 8380, E-mail: info.in@egypt.travel
Best Season:
Mid October to May
December to February (the cruise season)
Stay, Lunch and Dine
Visit Egypt Hotel Associations website: http://eha.org.eg or the official website of Egyptian tourism, http://www.egypt.travel
Travel Tips
For security reasons, visits to the main attractions are closely guarded. If you are not traveling as part of a group, organize your route when you get there with agencies in Cairo or Luxor, or else hire a car with a guide.
Time difference: Standard Time is 3.5 hours behind IST.
Clothing: Light cotton clothings, hat, sun cream and sun glasses. Women must cover their shoulders and do not wear shorts. Take off shoes before going into mosques. When buying tickets, women should line up with other women only.
Nile cruise: Travel agencies like Thomas Cook in Cairo and Luxor offer cruise trips combined with tours of the main attractions. Swimming is not recommended in Nile.
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The Pharaohs showed more interest in building tombs than huge palaces. So intense was their yearning to traverse across birth cycles! Ancient Egyptians saw death not as an end to life, but as the beginning of a journey to another world. They believed that after death, the eternal soul becomes the life force, 'ka', and rejoins the gods. When the soul is reborn, it requires the body of the individual for sustenance. This is why the Egyptians preserved the bodies of the dead. The older generations took care to mummify the dead kings' bodies and keep them safely in specially made coffins. They believed that a failure to do so would lead to the land's doom. Gold and precious stones, vessels, household equipments and food were kept in these death chambers as treasures for subsequent births.
