Rail trail in the forest
Trekking for two days through the marvel of Indian railway history, the tramway in Parambikulam, in the midst of deep forest.
The forest stretched long, filled with greenery. We continued our journey through the wild path defying the cascading rivers and deep rain forest. It would be unbelievable for one to know that once there existed a tramway. Yes the narrow gauge rail, through the dense forest, above the gushing rivers. Though the railings have disappeared, the path, which was constructed for tramway, still exists there.
The fairy tale of Tramway is that it was set up in 1905 under the visionary of Maharaja of Cochin to transport Cochin teak from Parambikulam to Chalakkudy and then to export it to the rest of the world from Cochin harbour. The money from this Tramway was used to equip Cochin into a modern port and to develop Wellington Island, roads, bridges etc. The Tramway was stopped in 1951. Now only the remnants in the form of rails, bridges, wagons, etc are there.
To give a fitting tribute to Cochin State Forest Tramway a unique innovative eco-friendly trekking package is launched along this once existed tramway route. The foot trail along this rail trail will give a unique opportunity to witness some of the remaining of Cochin forest Tramway, besides sighting hundreds of birds and animals. It is a passage through nature, history and heritage.
``A wonder like this never existed anywhere in India, its an engineering marvel,' exclaimed H Champion who was the British Imperial silviculturist. The trekking route begins from the premises of Parambikulam to the Anappantham colony, which is 21 km prior to Chalakkudy. It's an adventurous journey through the Parambikulam and Chalakkudy forest divisions. Chinnar Terminal, the last station of tramway in Parambikulam is now resting in peace under the Parambikulam reservoir.
DFO Sanjayan Kumar, who agreed to come with us for trekking, had to cancel it in the last moment as he was transferred to Thekkadi.
Dam is the starting point and forest begins straight away after the dam. In the two sides of the tram way line had dense forest. Next to it was the bustling Parmbiyar. There are plenty of teak trees and it is said that teak forests are a threat to the forest as a whole. Not a single seed will grow under the teak leaves and so any trees. It won't give chance for plant diversity.
It is said that one should walk silently to hear the music and whispers of the forest. Birds were singing in the path. Then we heard a whistling sound as made by a young man. Its Choolakkakka , said Saju who was our guide and a bird lover. There were different kinds of birds engaged in their music concert. Then suddenly he spotted a bird and said the bird is the mimicry artist in the forest. He would imitate cuckoo bird, deer and peacock but doesn't know his own sound, Saju said. For Malayalees this bird is familiar through poetries, yes the Kakkathamburatti.
The trekking way from Parambikulam and Kuriyarkutty is paradise for bird watchers. This was favorite exploration route of Salim Ali. It was in Kuriyarkutty that he first found his favorite bird, broad-billed roller (Kattupanankakka). When he reached here in 1933 his newly wed wife Thefmeena accompanied him. This place is the paradise for birds with presence of rare breeds including Grest pied hornbill, Malabar Pied Hornbill (Vezhambal), Grey headed fishing eagle (Narathalayan Parunthu) and Peninsular bay owl (Kunjikooman).
We spotted a unique bridge in the meeting points of Kuriyarkutty River and Parambi River, in Kuriyarkutty. A big bridge made of teak wood to pass the tramway lines. The nuts and bolts are tight even though decades passed since its inception. While looking above from the bridge, there the nature has wide open its magical window towards us. It is said that the Britishers made special saloons in the train to enjoy the nature's beauty.
Next to the bridge is the well-maintained Salim Ali Bird Interpretation centre. The centre has the rare pictures taken by Salim Ali and his detailed description on birds. One can spot old culverts while proceeding in the tramway, which is built over small rives. In one place there we saw a rock bridge, which was completely destroyed. During the journey we also came through group of bison. Bison are official symbol of Prambikulam wild life sanctuary.
We continued the journey to the long tramway leading to Orukkomban. Watcher Mohan who was walking in front of us stopped walking. He said there are signs of fresh tiger pugmarks. He said seeing the pugmark it might be male tiger. When they see the marks they have to inform the sighting. We were in dilemma as whether to move ahead or not. Sabu who was our companion said we could proceed as he said we would get good pictures up there. But Mohan intervened saying that may be the tiger
came to the area to quench his thirst in Karapparappuzha. Tiger is a lone wanderer who does not believe in family life. He resides in his self-drawn borders and loves privacy at most.
Parambikkulam was recently declared as the second tiger reserve in the state. We walked with bated breath and utmost caution. Sabu said if we stay for two days in hornbill region we would spot tiger and wild elephants on the riverbanks. When the mind was having the question why the march is not ending we reached Oruakkomban forest range office. The first level of trekking ends here. The rice and vegetable dish without a name had heavenly taste.
Earlier in the morning we had a bath at Karappara River. From Orukkomban, Manichettan who is armed also joined us. He said two days back when he was in the river to wash the dishes he saw a panther. Our next destination was Muthuvarchal anti poaching centre, which was at 5-mile distance from Orukkomban. The path becomes muddy with yesterdays rain. The mood of the forest changes from here, as we are traveling through deep rain forests. The poaching centre resides inside the trenches
and next to it was Muthuvarchal River.
The old bridge, which memorizes the classic film `Bridge on the River Kwai', was destroyed completely. If it was summer, we could have crossed the river but now that is not possible as the river is flowing in its full strength. When our hopes were on tenterhooks, the companions immediately made a bamboo raft after cutting bamboos, in which only one can travel at a time. Then we were in search of river portion where the strength of the flow is low. Those moments were really adventurous. Sabu
navigated the bamboo raft one by one by braving heavy current. Then we reached forest, which includes in Chalakkudy forest division.
There we were welcomed by a small stream, which we were able to cross after putting our hands together. Without falling we managed to cross the river. There were signs of elephants. Mohan said there is no smell indicating their presence near to us and asked us to proceed. Then we rubbed a mixture of tobacco powder and dettol in the whole body to protect from leeches. The forest covered the tramway tracks. The maintenance of tracks would be held after monsoon. Manichettan walked in front
removing the barriers. How many lives would have been sacrificed for setting up this track?. We won't find that in history but only would found about the wheels of determination, which ran over the blood. We began to spot cobras in the path. We proceeded with caution. Mohan said without any wonder that this is the area of king cobras. Cobras are favorite food for king cobras. Pointing at the bamboo forest Mohan said King Cobra would build the shell with dried out leaves and would lay eggs.
We began to spot debris of rails in the path, iron rods, nails, cables and many more. We also spotted the remnants of a bridge over a trench. One can pass it through after great effort. We passed like circus players without looking down. Our ways were blocked my many tree. There we began to hear a roar defeating all sounds of the forest. Then there we spotted a breathtaking waterfall in the midst of dense forest.
The place was marvelous like in ghost story. A river was flowing down from a flat rocky surface, it is Mayiladappan waterfall. We reached near the natures wonder. We had a break sharing the biscuits and banana and had a bath in the river. We proceeded with more energy to Komalappra forest range. Steps gained speed. If we lost time and if it rains we would be in difficulty. The forest was turning tougher. Still in hurry we were amused with spectacular view surrounding in the form of flowers, the
insects and butterflies. All went into silent mode like the nature. We never recognized how time passed and how we reached Anapantham covering Pothupara and Kavala. A jeep came from the outside world was waiting for us in Anappantham colony.
Travel map
Traveler's circuit
Covering the Parambikkulam border one would reach Indira Gandhi National park (Anamalai tiger reserve) in Coimbatore district. There are information center, cottages and dormitories in the tourist complex of the park in Top slip. The admission time is from morning 6 am to 6pm. There are trekking and safari services in the park. For more information call 04259 2225356.
There is only 39 km distance from Parambikulam to Pollachi. Pollachi is a beautiful village captured by many directors in their film. Pollachi agricultural market and jaggery markets are famous.
There is only 50 km distance from Parambikulam to the beautiful Valpara ghat. Aliyar dam situates in the way. Covering Valapra ghat one can go to Kochi or Thirssur though Anamali highway via Malakkappra, Athirapilly and Chalakkudy .
To the temple city Palani there is 100 km from Prambikulam via Pollachi. There are100 km to Coimbatore too.
There are trekking ways to Nelliyampathi from Parambikulam with a distance approximately 25 km. It needs special permission from the forest department. One can reach Nelliyampthy via Nenmara and Pothundy too.
Location
Kerala. Palakkad district. Muthalamada Panchayath,Chittur taluk. Though the sanctuary is in Kerala one can only approach here through Tamilnadu, ie Pollachi.
How to Reach
By Road: Sanctuary is only approachable by road. From Palakkad (own Vehicle is advisable) come along Kollangode, Govindapuram and cross the border to Pollachi and deviate to Anamalai on Pollachi road, clear Sethumadai Check post.
You have to pay entrance fee, Vehicle fee and camera/Vedio fee here.
Entry Fee: Rs 15 per head.
Vehicle Entry: Rs 25 (light), Rs 50 (Heavy)
Camera: Rs 50. Video: Rs 150
Enter Anamalai Tiger reserve (Indira Gandhi National Park),Tamilnadu (Entry time 6am- 6pm).
Proceed to Top Slip, which is the entrance to Parambikulam Tiger reserve and as well to Kerala.
One KSRTC bus operates from Palakakd to Parambikulam via Pollachi everyday on 7.45 am. It reaches Parambikkulam by 12 pm and returns to Palakkad on 12.30 pm.
TNSTC runs two services from Pollachi to Parambikulam. On 6.15 am and 3.15 pm respectively. It returns to Pollachi on 8.45 am and 5.45 pm from Parambikulam.
Parambikulam could be also reached by coming along Chalakkudy, Athirappalli, Malakkappara, Valappara, Aliyar and Anamalai through Anamalai Highway.
Note: For the day visitors who just want to drive through the sanctuary in their private vehicle, without availing any packages, only 30 vehicles will be permitted to enter the sanctuary per day, at an interval of three vehicles per hour, starting from 7 am to 4 pm. Visitors can book the entry slot for their vehicle in advance over telephone at eco-care centre, Ph-04253 245025.
Confirmed visitors have to report 30 minutes earlier before their reserved slot time.
Nearest fuel Pump: Vettaikaranpudur, 23 km from Parambikulam.
By Air: Coimbatore (100 km).
By Rail: Olavakkode Junction: 102 km. Coimbatore 100Km.
Distance chart: Palakkad 95 km. Pollachi 39 km, Coimbatore 84 km.
Contact
STD Code: 04253. Ph: 245005. Email: wildlifewarden@parambikulam.org
Stay
Varieties of accommodations are available in Parambikulam. Tented Homes at Anappady (7 tents, 14 beds), Vettikunnu Island Inn (6 beds), Treetop Hut, Thunacadavu (2 beds) a Tree top Hut, Parambikulam (2 beds) .
Elephant Valley home, Parambikulam (6 beds), Bison valley Home, Parambikulam (6 beds), Sambar Machan, Kuriarkutty (5 nos) , Peacock Machan, Vengoli (5 nos), Cheetal Machan, Anakkal (5 nos), Thellikkal IB (8 beds).
LTM House (6 beds), Bay Owl Shed, Bagapallam (5 nos), Tahr shed, Vengoli (5 nos), Cane Turtle Shed, Thuthanpara (5 nos) Tiger hall, Prambikulam (20 nos), Mansheer Dormitory, Anapady (40 nos), Salim Ali Study centre (10 nos).
For details contact: Ecocare Centre, Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary, anappady, Thunakkadavu P.O. Ph 04253 245025.
Email: bookings@parambikulam.org
Best season: August- February. Sanctuary remains closed in April. Best season for trekking: Dec- March.
Entry time: 7am - 6 pm. (entry closes at 4 pm), Entrance fee: Rs 10 (adults), Rs 5 (Children, students), Rs 100 (Foreigners). Vehicles: Rs 150(Heavy), Rs 50(light), Rs 20 (others). Camera: Rs 150 (Video/Movie- non professional), Rs 25 (Ordinary cameras). Trekking fare (2 days): Rs 6000( with food), 5 persons
An armed staff and three trained naturalists will accompany a group of maximum persons. The trek will start at 10 am: tea, snacks, breakfast, lunch and dinner will be served on route. For details contact: 04253 245025,245024, 09442201690.
Tips
Follow the gate time ie: 7am-6 pm.
Always follow the instructions of staffs
Animal sightings are matter of chance in the trek, be silent and be patient.
Consuming alcohol and smoking are prohibited
Traveling alone and deviating from the trek path are prohibited.
Don't wear colorful clothes or perfumes.
Khakis, browns and greens are best suited for trek.
Carry drinking water and snacks.
Do not disturb or tease animals while trekking.
Give way to animals first.
Jungle boots are advised for trekking.
Carry a first aid kit.
Leave your music systems back home.
Do not litter the trek path.
Carry a note pad, flashlight and maps.
Text: R L Harilal
Photos: Madhuraj
Translation: Shamila KY
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